Old Italy at Capo's
By Pete Allman

When I was a kid, I used to hang around authentic Italian restaurant in Rome, New York. I would talk to the guys with the big noses and cigars. What I enjoyed most was the sauces and the lasagna that these Italian restaurants served. Capo's Italian Cuisine is one of those restaurants. Located at 5975 West Tropicana, between Decateur and Jones, this old speakeasy atmosphere will surprise the most elegant of patrons. First you must ring the buzzer and then someone opens the little picture frame and asks if you would like dinner. The door then opens and there you are, listening to the music of Sinatra. The waiters and waitresses at this fine restaurant are friendly and most attentive.

This all began in 1964 when Dominic Sanducci and his brother Niko opened Capo's. Originally from Chicago, the two brothers took the family recipes from their father's side and decided to give Las Vegas real Italian cuisine. They've been successful ever since.

"Like in any good meal, you need flavor," says Dominic. What makes Italian dishes is the sauce. By the way, it doesn't hurt if the chef knows how to prepare the food. For instance, the veal is something that is thin and has to be cooked at the right temperature. In my case, I ordered veal marcela. I hadn't had a chance to have veal marsela for about a year, and it certainly hit the spot. I must admit, Capo's serves big portions, also. For starters, I ordered Niko's Caesar salad, which consisted of Romaine lettuce, tossed in Capo's Caesar's dressing with garlic and lemon. Best of all, it was prepared table-side. I also ordered Bogey's brushetta Scarface's Special, which is a blend of garlic, fresh-chopped marinated tomatoes, basil, parsley, grated cheese, and a pinch of crushed red pepper served with Italian crustins.

For an evening of old speakeasy dining and fine Italian cuisine, I highly recommend Capo's. In fact, they rated a nine plus. Call for reservations at (702) 436-CAPO (2276). The web address is http://caposrestaurant.com --
and that's a wrap.